Have you ever wondered why Alabama beaches are so white? The sugary sand squeaks under your bare feet as you walk the shoreline. And the water? What gives it that aquamarine quality that makes you think you’ve left the country and fallen to earth somewhere in the Caribbean?
I’ve journeyed three times to the twin towns of Orange Beach and Gulf Shores to conduct research on these questions – and more! For example: Does Doc’s Seafood Shack and Oyster Bar really have the best fried Shrimp in the entire civilized world? And what are the odds of a fly fisherman catching a Pompano off the beach?
Of course, the Red Snapper federal opener on June 1 is a much-celebrated event that draws anglers from all over the world. With dozens of charter companies ready to take you out in quest of the delectable Snapper, Alabama offers a generous quota. Fishermen can retain two Snappers over 16 inches per day, 7 days a week. Just offshore, there are over 2,500 wrecks and artificial reefs where you can catch Red Snapper and other species! Last year, the Snapper season ran 196 days, which gives you an idea of the staying power of this fishery…
The captains here are professionals with their favorite reefs and rock piles marked on their GPS devices. They provide the bait and tackle – and you can bet they’ll put you on fish. But don’t just come here to limit out on Snapper.
Lean into it.
After a few days of Snapper fishing, there are many reasons to stick around. From world-class inshore fishing to the broad and inviting beaches, to the catch-and-cook culture and down-home Southern charm… The Alabama coast is the place to be this summer. Over the years, I’ve done this painstaking research, and I think it’s time to let you in on the vibe.
Kayaking Bayou Saint John
We pushed our kayaks off the beach in the predawn. Using headlamps to light the way, we pedaled out towards the lights at Perdido Pass Bridge. Already, bait fish were breaking the surface. We heard dolphins feeding nearby. Captain Scott Kennedy, owner of Whistlin’ Waters, told us that the early morning bite had been producing slot Redfish, Trout, and the occasional Flounder.
Usually, Capt. Kennedy is at the helm of his 24′ Skeeter bay boat. He specializes in taking families out for multi-species adventures. But today, he agreed to guide us in kayaks, which he described as a closer, more intimate way to fish. The kind of fishing where you’re eye-to-eye with your quarry.
There was light traffic flowing over the bridge. Just a few early morning workers going to their jobs, or the occasional truck pulling a skiff. We were casting topwater plugs into shallow water where Capt. Kennedy said the Redfish liked to cruise. After a few casts, I caught a Ladyfish, a beautiful, leaping species I’d never seen before. I missed some big pulls from Redfish, and landed a Trout. But the real excitement came when a slot Redfish smashed one of Capt. Kennedy’s twitch baits.
Back at the marina, he filleted the fish so I could bring it to one of the catch-and-cook restaurants in Orange Beach. Both Orange Beach and Gulf Shores feature a myriad of seafood restaurants that will take your fresh catch and prepare it Southern-style, complete with coleslaw and hush puppies. He explained that kayak fishing stirs something deep inside you. He said some of his most memorable days were out fishing from kayaks. This guy has caught thousands of Redfish over the years, and it was amazing to see him so energized. His hands still trembled at the excitement of seeing that Red turn on his lure. He placed the fillets into a plastic baggie and sent me on my way.
Dock Light Casting
When I’m in Gulf Shores and Orange Beach, my friend Easton from Visit Alabama Beaches does all the pre-trip planning. Recently, he asked me if I wanted to fish the docks at night. The forecast was for spotty thunderstorms and a bit of wind, but we decided to go anyway.
We met Chris Vecsey at the boat ramp just as the sun was setting. Vecsey is a sort of jack of all trades who manages the tackle department at J&M Tackle, a must-see for the visiting angler. Pretty soon, we were gliding along Ono Island. Chris put me at the front of the Cayo skiff and gave me exactly one job: slide the trolling motor in so we could be stealthy in our approach.
Dock light fishing is a thing. In this part of Alabama, boathouses and docks are elaborate buildings – artful, well-appointed structures lit by green, underwater lights that signal economic prosperity and individual tastes. I sized up some of these dwellings and thought to myself: I could live here. It’s long been known that shrimp and bait fish congregate in the lights reflecting off the water. Redfish, Sheepshead, and Trout will often skulk into these brightly lit areas to ambush prey. At the first set of lights, there was nobody home.
“We might have to let things heat up,” said Vecsey.
The next light showed signs of life. I was casting a fly, a heavy clouser minnow. Large Trout were chasing shrimp in the lights. But they wouldn’t hit my fly. Vecsey clipped off the clouser and replaced it with a fly called the “schminnow”, a lighter, white fly that didn’t look like much. But one cast later, I hooked and landed a large Trout. And it kept getting better as the night went on. The thunderstorms never materialized. The bayou was slick-calm. Moths and termites hovered in the glow of the dock lights, and the fish were everywhere.
The highlight of the night came when I cast at a Bull Red. Using only 16 lb test, I knew my chances were low. But I cast to him in the eerie green light, and he turned and followed. The strike was alarming. The big fish sprinted out toward the dark channel. And for a beat, we thought maybe we had a chance. But when he changed directions and went back toward the docks, I knew I was done. He broke the line by dragging it across the barnacled pilings. And that was that. But not really. We still had one more play…
Easton had been talking about the Waffle House for hours. When we checked the time, it was nearly 2:30 a.m. We trailered the skiff, and in 20 minutes we were sitting at a table with waffle, city bacon, hash browns, and omelets spread before us. That Redfish was still on my mind, though. As I went to bed, the skies were glowing in the east. I wondered what it would have been like to get that fish to the boat, hold him for a photo, and let him go.
A Fly Fishing Classic for Everyone
One of the gems of Gulf Shores is the 6,150-acre Gulf State Park. Biking, birding, trail running, canoeing on Lake Shelby, beachcombing, and much more await visitor to this unblemished landscape. The Gulf State Park Fishing and Education Pier offers anglers a chance to catch King Mackerel, Redfish, and other nearshore species. The lodge, built into the dunes and respectful of the natural environment, is stunning. But for me, the learning campus, tucked into the loblolly pine forest, is a special place.
This past April, the fourth annual Gulf Coast Fly Fishing Festival was held here. Nationally-known fly tyers, rod builders, conservation experts, and various outfitters squeezed into the main hall of the campus for a raucous 3-day event. Rod builder Chuck Rayburn showcased his one-of-a-kind Blue Water Rods, custom-built here in Alabama. Between seminars, I found myself drawn to a 7 wt fiberglass that was dying to be lifted and waved in the air. I imagined the places I might go with a rod like this one.
Chris William, the co-founder of this event, says the popularity is expanding. “Our first year, we had 90. Now we have 35 corporate sponsors. There’s no room on our poster for all of the names!” Chris said. This year brought in over 200 participants. Why Gulf Shores? “The access to the beach,” said Chris. “People can make it a fun family vacation while still enjoying this hobby.”
In addition to informative sessions, there’s a mixed bag tournament in which participants seek to catch and release as many species as possible over a 3-day period. Size has nothing to do with it, though. You’re judged solely on the number of species you catch.
Volunteers taught casting on the lush lawns surrounding the buildings. I signed up and learned that I needed some work on my hauling techniques. I listened intently as Sam Sumlin of Community Fly Supply broke down the ins and outs of fly fishing Alabama’s beaches. There’s a bit more to it than you think…
Vermillion Snapper Keep You Busy
Maybe there’s something wrong with me. But I think the perfect day is fishing the reefs out of Perdido Pass with a group of strangers, catching a mess of Vermillion Snappers, and returning to Gulf Shores and Orange Beach for a catch-and-cook experience. Vermilions are the perfect fish: there are tons of them, and they taste every bit as good as their larger cousins.
We left the wharf at 7 a.m., a bunch of ragtag anglers, half of whom wore University of Alabama regalia. The other half hailed from all corners of the US. The deckhand diced and sliced squid, then placed handfuls into plastic cups. Soon, the captain came on the intercom and announced that we were nearing the first reef and that we were in 56 feet of water. As soon as my gear struck the bottom, I came tight on a fish.
For the next 4 hours, we caught Triggerfish, Porgies, Grouper, and undersized red Snapper that had to be released. For me, it was a steady flow of keeper-sized Vermilions. The humor was flowing, too. And the strangers I had gone to sea with became characters ranging from college students with terrible study habits to a cardiologist who spent his career in military hospitals! The swells were building, but we were having fun. I kept seven chunky vermilions (the limit is 10) and watched closely as the deckhand filleted them on the way back.
With over a pound of pure white fillets, I hit the docks in Orange Beach. I was eager to find a restaurant and eat my catch with all of the fixings. The options ranged from Zeke’s Restaurant to GTs on the Bay. Shipps Dockside Grill and Sassy Bass Amazin Grill were contenders, too. I called my fixer, Easton. He came and picked me up. We set out to do the hard lifting this type of research demands.
Have you been fishing on Alabama’s rich coastline? Where do you go to cook your catch? Reach out in the comments below!
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